SAN ANTONIO The Smokehouse
Remarkable employee: A jocular pitman who hails arriving and departing guests. This modest spot with vinyl tablecloths and a TV mounted on the wall is brought to life by the old players handling the forty-foot indoor pit. We encountered laborers, families, and professional types all enjoying crunchy-on-the-outside, flavorful-and-moist-on-the-inside 24-hour brisket along with juicy pork ribs and not-too-greasy sausage, all smoked over mesquite. The homemade sauce (with a touch of honey?) is mighty fine. PBM Rating: 4. 3306 Roland, 210-333-9548. Open Tue—Sat 11—8, Sun 11—6. Closed Mon.
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