Complaint: The delicious brisket was sliced too thin.
As a general rule, the barbecue biz is pretty low-tech, but we noticed that owner Robert Thompson and his wife, Linda, both wore wireless telephone headsets. Perhaps this be-prepared attitude is the secret to Thompson’s success. He insists that pecan is the correct wood and that twelve hours is the correct smoking time. Tender brisket and pork shoulder bore out his theories, although the meat could have done with a lot less salt in the rub. PS
Rating: 4.
1210 E. Loop 304, 936-544-5193. Open Tue–Thur 11–8, Fri & Sat 11–9. Closed Sun & Mon.
Notable decor: Hundreds of dollar bills from customers cover the walls.
The secret? “Love,” says 62-year-old Louis McMillan, the owner of this six-table outpost in this tiny town, just west of Victoria. Corny, sure, but that love—along with sixteen-plus hours over an oak-pecan-mesquite mix—turns out moist, tender brisket and fat little baby back ribs that are nicely charred on the outside and pink on the inside. SH
Rating: 4.
9913 U.S. 59, 361-645-2326. Open Sun—Thur 10—6, Fri & Sat 10—7:30.
Complaint: The giant pit is fenced off and cannot be admired.
The brisket fell into delectable shards while remaining moist, even after an alarming twenty to thirty hours in the smoker. We missed the ribs, but the porcine portion of the barbecue family was well represented by two kinds of sausage, plain and spicy. Darn-good sides rounded out the offerings. The thick, sweet, tomato-tart sauce had bite. A few branding irons carry out the squeaky-clean dining room’s cowboy theme. PS
Rating: 4.25.
855 W. Comal (Texas Hwy. 140), 830-334-8000. Open Sun—Thur 8:30—8:30, Fri & Sat 8:30—9:30.
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