KOUNTZE Caroline’s Quality and Quantity Bar-B-Que
Complaint: Our stomachs weren’t bigger. There’s no sign (Hurricane Rita blew it down), but smoke and smell help you find this small (three tables), immaculate, wood-frame building just off U.S. 69. The name is no joke. A three-meat plate held half a pound of lean, melt-in-your-mouth brisket, smoked thirteen hours over red oak in the iron pit; four intensely flavored pork ribs with a crunchy glaze; and four coarse, medium-spicy beef links made by pitmaster Arthur Yarbough (they hang for twenty hours in a closetlike smokehouse within the pit room). JM Rating: 4.5. 320 Third, 409-246-8050. Open Thur—Sat 10—7. Closed Sun—Wed.
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