Oceana

Ben Pollinger Oceana, New York Cooking on the line at otherworldly New York venues like Lespinasse and Union Square Cafe, Pollinger clearly was an ardent student. His knowledge of how to spice and season every species of fish has him inching toward the rarefied firmament of New York masters like Eric Ripert, the sea god at Le Bernardin. A stinging-nettle soup, as bright as spring itself, brims with fresh Gulf shrimp laced with yogurt panna cotta and a little sorrel. He encrusts snapper with tapioca and sets it in seaweed broth; pan-roasted cod gets the hot bite of mustard greens and chorizo. Pollinger witnessed greatness at those early gigs, and he paid attention.